Sunday, October 2, 2016

Should Cinque Terre be on your bucket list?


Manarola

 Cinque Terre. Five tiny towns in the Italian Riviera. Rick Steves would have you believe there is no more magical place on Earth. And if you're the type that enjoys sitting on a rock, taking in the view, enjoying a glass of wine and the antics of fellow tourists, you will have a lovely time. So long as this will keep you endlessly entertained. Because, let's face it, in reality there's not much else to do.

Prior to my visit, I scoured the internet for things to see and do in Cinque Terre. There's not a lot of information out there. Now I know why - and I'm going to share my epiphany with you. That whole sitting on a rock, drinking a glass of wine thing? That about covers it. If you enjoy hiking, there are some of the most awe inspiring views to be had, but plan your visit accordingly. Not June to August when the heat is oppressive and a hike akin to setting yourself on fire. Perhaps April or October, when the crowds have thinned and the climb is not just bearable but enjoyable.


Riomaggiore

By all means, explore the towns: Riomaggiore, Vernazza, Manarola...all beautiful. Soak up the views, take lots of photos - just label them, because you will have a hard time telling one from the other when you get back home. Corniglia stands out, as the one high up on top of the cliffs; the others blend together into a beautiful, pastel, hazy sort of memory.

Can they be seen in one day? Some people make Cinque Terre a day trip. Consensus on the internet is that you cannot see them all in one day. Agreed. All you would take away is the memory of waiting in train stations. If your time is limited, pick no more than two. Have two or more days, then do yourself a favour and set yourself up in Monterosso, the most northern of the five towns, and by far the largest. But I mean large as in more than one street - not bustling metropolis. The other towns consist each of a single main street that never took more than ten minutes to explore from end to end.

Monterosso
When you disembark in Monterosso by train (or car, but hey this is a holiday, why drive?), allow your hot, sweaty self a moment  to just take in the view. This is Spaggia di Fegina, the largest and cheapest of the two beaches in Monterosso. It's close to some good eats, including take out, a few small stores in case you need some sun bloc or a floatie, and the price of a chair includes wifi and a washroom. You won't find much beach in the other towns, and if you have come in the hot summer months, this is where you will want to be. The water is warm, and deep, and the beach is rocky - bring water shoes. Flip flops don't cut it. You can rent a kayak or a stand up paddle board - just be prepared to leave a deposit - a credit card or cell phone. The prices aren't cheap, for either the

Many of the towns lack an easily accessible beach.

toys or the chair, but the tiny portion devoted to free public sunbathing is crowded and shade less. This will be money well spent.

Where you stay in Monterosso won't much matter. There is only one main street, running parallel to the beach, and another running inland into the historic section. It does have the odd local car trying to make a delivery, but is less hilly than the other towns and easily navigable by foot. If you are setting up base camp here for a few days, you will also appreciate the laundromat, small grocery store and wider selection of restaurants and wine bars. Just note,  take out sandwiches and pizza will be either unavailable or severely limited in the evenings so count on dining out, or stock up ahead of time.  By day, food choices are more plentiful, including an excellent patio restaurant situated at the far end of the smaller, more pricey beach, Bagina di Fegina.

Cinque Terre is made to be admired from afar. So be sure to get out on the water at some point. Rent a boat, or take a guided tour, or even just ride the ferry that links the towns. But plan accordingly - if you are breaking up a tour of Italy and need a break

Vernazza

from churches, art and mopeds, Cinque Terre is a delightful oasis. If you are not a beach person, come when the weather is most suitable for hiking. On a side note, many trails damaged form the 2011 flooding are still not restored. If you would enjoy a beach break in between Venice and Rome, be sure to stay in Monterosso, and explore the other towns late afternoon and evening. But if you can't squeeze Cinque Terre into your travel plans, the Amalfi Coast is equally beautiful....

 



 







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