Ride the Tidal Bore!

Inspired by an excellent book by Robin Esrock called The Great Canadian Bucket List, I planned our latest adventure, a Maritime road trip, all around the chance to ride a tidal bore. We knew we wanted to see all 4 Atlantic provinces, and figured the best way to do it would be to rent a car in Moncton, New Brunswick and leave it in Halifax, Nova Scotia, flying for our final leg of the journey to St John's, Newfoundland. Along the way we would cross the Confederation Bridge as well, and spend some time in both Charlottetown and Cavendish, PEI. Tides are a tricky thing however; they wait for no man. Our best bet was to leave Charlottetown one fine July morning and hightail it straight to Maitland, Nova Scotia, a three hour drive. By leaving at 8am, with a pit stop at Tim Horton's, we could make it to Maitland by 11. That allowed an hour for any unforeseen emergencies, traffic tie ups or moose crossings. We made it in good time, with time to spare. First things first, we located the tidal bore rafting company River Runners. Located in a large blue house, just minutes from the only intersection in Maitland,  River Runners offers both full and half day tours. Both tours leave at the same time; it is essential to check their website for tour times as they vary according to the tide schedule. The half day tour stays out on the water for about two hours and offers much needed hot beverages upon your return. The full day tour spends an extra two hours out on the river and then treats riders to a BBQ steak dinner. Prices vary from $60-90 per person (Canadian) according to the length of ride and its intensity.

Getting ready was an adventure in itself! First we donned the great big yellow raincoats, then the lifejackets and then the boots. You can forgo the boots if you have waterproof shoes that will stay fastened. Deep down I always knew crocs trumped flip flops! Once dressed, the masses were divided into groups of 8 and assigned a leader/driver. We then trekked to down to the shores of the Shubenacadie, which when the tide is out is a very long walk indeed. In front of us a long dock stretched out into a field of mud, and way off in the distance the river appeared. We made our way to the water and climbed into our assigned Zodiacs.
The boats move as a group out a little ways and spread out. About eight boats in all filled with an assortment of adventure seekers, some still in grade school, others retirees and the majority somewhere in between. One boat will stay empty and accompany the group in case anyone falls out, or needs a break from what will soon prove to be a very wild ride.
Finally, off in the distance, an innocuous looking wave approaches. We wait, until this wave is underneath us and then we take off riding the crest. Looking over the side I see we are now sitting on top of a metre high wave that is rushing up the river, forcing the river to change direction.

Twice a day the tide comes into the Bay of Fundy and the mouth of the Shubenacadie River, pushing 160 billion tonnes of seawater into a narrowing passage. These unique circumstances create the highest tides in the world, and create the phenomenon known as the tidal bore. As the water hits sandbars, it creates tidal rapids, whirlpools and cross currents. It is never-ending white water conditions and we plunge into the rapids again and again. I hang on tight and close my eyes each time a powerful wave of chocolate brown water engulfs the boat. We ride the waves, following the current about 13 kilometres down the river. Farther down river, the banks rise sharply on either side, stone faced cliffs above which tower pine trees and eagle nests.

The Shubenacadie is a favourite of the bald eagle as low tide exposes the fish and makes for easy hunting. As the tide flows in, the water climbs the cliff walls reaching toward the high water line. I choose to bail, and our guide signals the emergency boat, allowing me to climb from one Zodiac to the other and give my middle aged muscles a chance to relax. It also allows me a chance to photograph some of the many eagle nests. I watch our boat with my fourteen year old son still aboard, plunge through the waves. Finally its over, the wave has petered out, and many riders take the opportunity to jump over and float in the current. I'm very glad to be wearing the yellow rain slicker as we zoom back up to the mouth of the river. The water in July was fairly warm, but the wind is cold and we have a long ride.

Back at headquarters we find hot chocolate waiting for us, hot showers and heated floors. Once changed and dried, we are ready to sit down to a barbequed steak, salad and roll. Food never tasted so good! The adventure over, we headed to our B and B. Note, Maitland is a very, very small town, but Truro is only about half an hour way for those looking for a greater variety of accommodations. It was an exciting all-Canadian adventure, and one more item to cross off the Great Canadian Bucket list!

Come play in Playa del Carmen!

Looking for a resort experience with a bit more adventure? I highly recommend Playa del Carmen, a coastal resort town along Mexico's Yucatan peninsula. Located an hour's drive south from the Cancun airport, and directly across from the island of Cozumel, Playa del Carmen has white sandy beaches, warm, clear water and stunning snorkeling opportunities. Travel a little farther south and swim with giant turtles off the beach in Akumal. Hire a guide and swim through cenotes - underground freshwater rivers. Grab a ferry and swim with dolphins in Cozumel. Have I established that the possibilities are endless? Last summer, I took the kids for a week of fun in the sun. We stayed at the Gran Porto Resort and Spa, a beautiful hacienda style resort, adjacent to the beach and a three minute walk to Fifth Avenue. We enjoyed the beach front pool, as well as the pool on the 3^rd floor. It was adjacent to a sushi bar, a great place for a late afternoon snack. The down side to this hotel is the immediate oceanfront.

The beach in front of the Gran Porto has taken a serious beating over the years; hurricanes have eroded the beach down to a rocky and often sand-bagged shoreline. But not to fear! Five minutes in either direction will take you to expansive white sand, and a smooth sandy bottom. This was a minor inconvenience, because what really makes the Gran Porto stand out, is its proximity to Fifth Avenue. Any time of day or night, venture out to this cobble-stoned, pedestrian-only smorgasbord of restaurants, shops, bars and street performers.

The Gran Porto is at one end, the ferry docks to the island of Cozumel at the other. Expect to spend several hours just walking and gawking, or grab a seat at a bar, restaurant or hookah lounge and people watch. We tried a little fish spa therapy and had our feet nibbled by dozens of toothless Garra Rufa fish who feast on dead skin. Refreshed and exfoliated, we continued on, stopping to have our pictures taken with Mayan warriors and a friendly marmoset. There are of course tourist shops galore, but there are also local artisan shops selling unique and beautiful hand crafted items.













What do you need to be aware of on Fifth Avenue? Beware the popular "We met last night at the hotel" scam. One too many tourists must have fallen for this friendly ploy to get you into their shop in the guise of drunken camaraderie the evening before, because I guarantee, half the shop owners will claim to have spent an evening with you.

There are a lot of places on the street to change your money - the rate is better than the hotels, but take the time to peruse the options as the rates will vary. As well, keep in mind that a number of the bigger stores will accept American currency and even give back change in the American dollar. Sadly, I imagine that is no longer the case with the Canadian dollar which has nose-dived in recent months. Should you buy a tour from a hawker on the street? We did, and it was probably the best, and certainly one of the least expensive tours we did, particularly in comparison with the high rates of tours sold from the hotel lobby. Can I guarantee you will always be satisfied? No. It is buyer beware. Be sure to take a handful of American ones with you - the street performers deserve to be tipped. It's a lot like Bourbon Street, in New Orleans, only prettier, and with a view of the beach every block. Who could ask for more?

Hopewell Rocks - it really does!!

What do you get when you combine the gravitational pull of the moon, a narrow bay with a sloping bottom and 100 billion tonnes of rushing seawater? The highest tides in the world! At Hopewell Rocks in New Brunswick, Canada, you can watch the tides rise and fall over 14 metres twice a day. Better yet, you can ride the tides on a guided kayak tour with Baymount Outdoor Adventures. http://www.thehopewellrocks.ca/  Later, return to walk the ocean floor.

Our adventure began in Moncton, New Brunswick. We flew in the night before, rented a car, and then made the short and easy drive to Hopewell - about 40 minutes door to door. There's lots of parking and an easy walk to the admission gate. $9 adults/$6.75 kids (2015) and you've bought yourself a two day pass, in case you'd rather not stick around for the tide to change, but return the next day at your leisure. There's an interpretive centre to explain the science and history behind the tides - some of the oldest rocks in the world can be found in this neck of the woods, here long before the Rocky Mountains were even a twinkle in anyone's eye.  Then, if all that reading makes you hungry, grab a reasonably priced bite at the High Tide Café. When it's time to work off the calories, head outside and start walking - don't stress - it's all downhill. There are viewing platforms along the way, and a pleasant path through the woods. Best of all - there's a $2 shuttle ride to avoid the walk back up! At the end of the trail you will find a large warning sign, and a staircase. This is how you reach the ocean floor, when the tide is out. But be sure to take a peek at high tide to see the water rushing in around the steps. You must know the tide times before you plan this trip - they are accessible on the web site http://www.thehopewellrocks.ca/

The sign is there to warn you how long you have on the ocean floor before the tide comes rushing back in and you find yourself trapped! Actually, there's little chance of this unless you choose to live dangerously - the tide is out long enough to allow for about three hours of walking time. We arrived at high tide all set to kayak - but on one of those windy days when the waves are 4 feet high and the chance of tipping is even higher. Though disappointed, we were no poorer. Baymount is an excellent company that prides themselves on safety - chickening out came with a full refund. But what to do? Cape Enrage - but that's another post.  Had we kayaked, we would have passed two hours on the water and then spent the remaining hour until low tide trail walking. Instead, we returned in time to descend the stairs and walk right out on to the ocean floor.

The scenery is truly stunning. You can walk under arches and around giant "flowerpot" rock formations, or wander down to the muddy water's edge. Closer to shore the ground is sandier and fairly compact. Should you need to, hoses are provided at the top of the staircase to clean off any mud. Or, if you are 14, to spray your mother. Give yourself at least an hour to wander - there are caves for the more adventurous, but even for the less inclined, the beauty needs to be enjoyed at length. End your visit with a stop at the gift shop - one of the nicest we visited over a 14 day Maritimes road trip.